Fixed Tail Light

Some older small projects that were done over the weeks

The left rear tail light was missing the separator between brake section and the turn signal section.  So when either light was on, they both glowed.   Using the other side's divider as a template, 5 minutes later a new sheet metal piece was installed and the lights look a lot better.
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The turn indicator would not automatically cancel, leaving the blinker on as we cruised down the street after a turn.  The goal was not to look like a grandmother with the blinker on for 15 minutes.  The white ring (with the screw through it) was just worn out after 40 years and was not quite thick enough to push the cancel bar up as the steering spun around.  A little spacer (the pointed thing) glued on top of the old raised bump provided just enough pressure to push the cancel bar up and turn off the indicator.  Little conveniences like this go a long ways.




Mounting the radio under the dash was a big improvement.  This radio includes USB connectivity so it is quite easy to connect an iPhone to listen to music as we drive around.  The hoses shown in the photo are part of the heater, which thanks to Spring arriving, is no longer needed.  Also, position the radio in front of the passenger, provides some entertainment and keeps it our of reach (aka: distraction) of the driver.

It Spins

After several weeks of designing and awaiting parts, not to mention a broken humerus, the controller is mounted and wired to the transmission.

This shot shows the controller on top of the transmission.  A few details:

• Kelly KHB72701 controller - 700 Amps, 90 Volts opto-isolated controller
• 600 A contactor with protection diode across the contactor coil
• 2K 10W pre-charge resistor across the contractor contacts
• PB-6 with microswitch for throttle control (add to add 3rd wire to potentiometer)
• 2/0 AWG welder wire to carry the power along with 1/2 crimped lugs
• 800A Fuse
• 2 x 2A fuses for controller and the contactor
• 18V and 12V power supplies to isolate the controller (18V) from the contactor (12V) and batteries (24V, eventually 77V)
• A couple of switches to manage the reverse function and contactor power
• Motenergy ME0913 motor with thermistor (KTY84-130) attached with 1K resistor as a voltage divider

After lots of crimping and cutting, we powered up the system, connected two old car batteries and sure enough it spins.  The throttle worked, the reverse switch worked and the motor sounded quite normal.  The transmission is dry at the moment, so we didn't spin it faster than a couple of RPM.

After reading about all of the problems people have had, it was a surprise that things worked out of the gate. Though I shouldn't be since this was assembled as the manufacturers suggest.

Next up....

Finish sealing the transmission and put in some transmission fluid to allow it to spin full speed.   Then the planning starts for the engine swap.